New Zealand born, British based designer Emilia Wickstead spent her formative years in Milan and New York, working with the likes of Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodriguez. Her eponymous label was originally a made-to-measure atelier but has since expanded to include ready-to-wear collections which she first debuted in 2012. Wickstead‘s clothes have always had a regal presence; worn by the Duchess of Cambridge and former British First Lady Samantha Cameron, her garments subscribe to a subtle luxury. High class interesting designs were the order of the day, but for her SS17 collection she takes a curious turn.
Taking her inspiration from 1970s South American Love hotels, which were created for the explicit need to ‘hook up’, Wickstead’s bold choice could have come off somewhat seedy, yet instead transpired to a runway drenched in ladylike romance. Silhouettes from the 70s floated down the catwalk in a subtle sheerness and pussy bow blouses were adorned with printed collars and paired with flowing skirts and A-line dresses. And despite her daring change of direction for SS17 Wickstead still managed to stay true to her essence, beautifully erring on the side of cool elegance rather than overt sexiness.
Inspired by the archetypal alpha male that was Henry VIII, Irish born designer J.W. Anderson took us on an unlikely historic lesson through his dress centric SS17 collection. Perhaps not the most likely of muses for a women’s spring summer collection, however what was to come was to be some of Anderson’s greatest and most wearable work.
Dresses were adorned with medieval sleeves and Tudor-esque jackets and bodices were decorated. Double facing garments sat at the forefront, while the overall silhouette was cut on the curve offering an ultra feminine look. Materials were raw and organic with the use of Irish linen which aided in softening the wide shouldered garments, hinting at a gentler side. Rolls of knitwear and thoughtful fabric cutting added a voluminous aspect to the collection; urban armour if you will. Overall Anderson’s mission was accomplished – the female of the species is most certainly deadlier than the male.
West London native Molly Goddard began to specialise in traditional hand-craft techniques such as hand pleating, smocking and crocheting during her BA in Fashion Knit at Central St Martins. Since graduating her collections of work touch upon themes of nostalgia and coming of age.
For her first LFW runway show, Molly Goddard stayed true to her roots of hand-crafted work but also gave it a trancey edge as she turned her catwalk into a revelry fit for ravers. Models danced and swayed as they made their way along the catwalk in what seemed to be a euphoric high.
The underground 90s club scene theme saw Goddard update her trademark smocks and tulle dresses with bright neons, Nick Waplington graphic tees, rainbow sweaters and frilled utility wear, all topped off with top-knot ponytails and it was this narrative to the line which whole heartedly embodied rave and youth culture. Together with the music and punch make-up looks it seemed everyone who bore witness to Goddard’s latest creations were high on molly.